2013-10-20 12.37.38

Information

  • Date:
    October 2013
  • Equipment Used:
  • Location:
  • Category:
    Daily Story
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October 20th – Early Surfing

Lauren and Austin pick me up at 9:30 from Simon’s house.

“Austin!” I say, giving him a hug and throwing my towel in the car. “What a surprise!”

“Didn’t know I was on the menu, eh?” He says.

We drive to Pacifica and meet with friends. Loren and Lauren take off on a few tiny waves, veering shoreward in different directions. My hands turn numb, and I claw at the water to push my board over the swells. I look at the fog-blurred horizon and feel an untethered joy at being there, right then, in the ocean under the gray sky.

I think: it is too easy to get lost in happiness like this.

I think: I want spend more time out here.

Back in San Francisco Lauren and Austin and I drink rich coffee and eat toast. I am dropped back off at Simon’s house and, many hours later, we order deep-dish pizza.

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